Julia on a bike

In 2023, I started on Expedition 51, which took me from Baie-Comeau to Blanc-Sablon, via Labrador. I didn’t complete this expedition, preferring instead to visit the island of Newfoundland. This year, I finished the end of Route 138, thus completing the circle. An adventure through a region that combines coastal and forest spirits, to the delight of our two-wheelers.

Quebec’s North Shore begins on the other side of the Saguenay Fjord, at Tadoussac in the Gulf of Saint-Laurent river, and stretches right up to the borders of Labrador and its sea. It is Quebec’s second-largest region in terms of surface area. Its six regional county municipalities (MRCs) offer breathtaking scenery, from coastal plains along the river to a more mountainous hinterland. The Laurentian Mountains, which begin in the Outaouais region, extend all the way to Labrador.

The North Shore dazzles with its geographical and cultural diversity. Whether you’re following the Whale Route or Expedition 51, you can meet many first nations communities (I visited Essipit and Pessamit), visit numerous fishing villages and even come across towns built around mining operations. The English-speaking communities, located mainly on the Lower North Shore, also give you an insight into the maritime culture of this part of the country.

Touring this region of Quebec on a motorcycle is a must-do! And that’s what I’ve done. Admittedly, in two seasons.

The whale route

In 2023, I began my exploration of the North Shore with the Tadoussac – Baie-Comeau segment, where the Saguenay Fjord was only the first of my favorites. While growing tourism in Tadoussac raises a number of issues, particularly in the dune sector, I had the opportunity to admire these mountains of sand whose presence is surprising. Not so much when you dig a little deeper into the geology – no pretense intended. On this 200-kilometre route, you can take time to stroll around and perhaps catch a glimpse of whales and other marine mammals.

Continuing along the Whale Route means continuing along Route 138 East, which will take you where it ends, in Kegaska. Since the summer of 2023, the 46 kilometers between Natashquan and Kegaska have been paved, allowing everyone, whatever their level, to reach the end of the road without fear. Without fear of a puncture, I mean.

The roadtrip stretches for almost 900 kilometers from Tadoussac, taking you through towns such as Sept-îles and Havre-Saint-Pierre for the larger ones, as well as numerous smaller communities that are nonetheless well worth a stop for a bite to eat or to admire the view. Whether you’re in Rivière-au-Tonerre, Port-Cartier or Mingan, each community is an invitation to relax.

Expedition 51

Expedition 51 owes its reputation to the wide-open spaces it takes you through and the long distances between communities. It starts in Baie-Comeau, follows Route 389 to Fermont, then crosses Labrador via Routes 500 and 510 before returning to Quebec at Blanc-Sablon, from where you can again travel to the end of Route 138 at Vieux-Fort. A section I chose not to complete last year, for lack of time.

Expedition 51 is more than 1,700 kilometers, almost all of it paved. Only 140 kilometers remain, between Manic 5 and Fermont, where you’ll have to contend with gravel that’s very dusty in hot weather, and very soft and slippery in wet weather. Labrador’s roads, on the other hand, are in excellent condition. The only thing you’ll need to check is your range. Between Happy-Valley-Goose-Bay and Port-Hope-Simpson, you won’t have any services (cell phone, gas, refueling). That’s just over 400 kilometers.

Once in Blanc-Sablon, you’ll continue your expedition aboard the Bella Desgagnés. Thanks to a journey which lasts several days aboard the boat, you’ll be able to discover fishing villages that are only accessible by sea. Once you’ve arrived in Kegaska, all you have to do is take 138 and continue your journey to Baie-Comeau.

The diversity offered by this unique adventure invites you to marvel at every turn. And if you want to find out more about the region’s economy and development, don’t hesitate to visit the Manic 5 dam and the mining town of Fermont. In Labrador, depending on how much time you have, take a break in Red Bay for the best fish and chips in the world (or close to it) and stretch your legs on two walks that will give you an exceptional view of Saddle Island.

To find out more about the North Coast, visit the region’s tourist office.